ausbrush panels Reg T.M. N0: 1086159          

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- Pre-Framed Panels Installation      

  See Installation Instructions below .....

ausbrush^TM

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE AUSBRUSH PRE-FRAMED, MODULAR BRUSHWOOD PANEL SYSTEM

1750mm high x 1800mm wide modules

Aust.Reg.Des.No: 308341

INTRODUCTION

The following provides a brief guide and pointers for the installation of the Ausbrush pre-framed, fully finished. brush fencing panel system for both level and sloping sites.  The iron bark coloured, powder coated panels are factory fitted with both a top plate and a bottom “V” plate on opposing legs to aid installation.  The foot of the post of the panel being placed, locates in the “V” locator of the panel already in place, and the top plate of the panel being placed secures to the top of the previous panel.  The legs extend 650mm beneath the panels to allow them to be set either on the ground or above ground level, or to be set on sleepers or other forms of base and to accommodate sloping sites. The modules are fully finished and the only additional material required for installation, are bags of premixed concrete.  Tools required, are hole digging equipment, shovel, rake, crowbar, mattock, barrow, pegs, stringlines, temporary posts, sledge hammer or stake driving dolly, a quantity of small blocks of wood of different thicknesses, a few lengths of timber or pipe for props, hand tools, hacksaw or power saw, portable drill with 5/16” hex driver bit, spirit level, tape measure, marking pen  etc

SETTING UP

One of the most important aspects in any fencing job is the setting up and pegging of the fence line.

1. Locate any buried services, such as water, power, gas, electricity and telephone lines.

2. Assess the slopes of the site, and if needed divide the fence line up into segments of similar slope.  Work out which end of the fence line to commence panel installation, so that panels that may need to be cut for width, are situated at the end of least visual importance.

3. Prepare the ground surface to suit the job at hand.  Where the 1750 mm high panels are to be set on top of the ground, or on top of sleepers or other base, then the ground should be levelled out for each slope segment.  When panels are to be elevated above ground, with a gap underneath, then an undulating ground surface may be acceptable.

4.  Install temporary posts, just beyond each end of each segment of fence line, to allow string lines to be fixed for the top-line and bottom-line of the fence panel modules.  A stake driving dolly is quite convenient for fitting a temporary post of sufficient height for this purpose, and typically a piece of material such as 25mm, 32 or 40mm nom.bore, 2200 mm long pipe is ideal.

5.  Calculate the overall height of fence required and set the top stringline, allowing for any base being used or gap underneath.  Note: depending on soil types, prevailing wind and climate conditions and wind loadings, the acceptable depth of posts in-ground will vary.  As a general practice, at least 500 mm, and preferably 600 mm of post should be concreted in-ground.  The pre-made modules have 650 mm long legs, and so the panels may be set above ground for additional height, with a clearance from 100 to 150 mm, depending upon site conditions.

6.  Set the bottom stringline 1750 mm down from the top stringline, this being the height of the panel. If the panels are to be set on the ground, then the bottom stringline can be set about 150mm above ground level and this line will only be used in this case for lateral post alignment.  The stringlines should be fitted to one side of the temporary end posts and the temporary posts should be checked for vertical with a spirit level, so that they provide a panel location reference in two planes, both vertical and horizontal.  In windy conditions and on long spans eg a 40 metre long fence-line, it is important to have a very taught stringline and to fit temporary mid-posts as well as end-posts, to minimise the stringlines being blown off line or sagging in the middle.  Insulation tape is useful for securing the stringlines to any mid posts with final adjustment by eye from one end.  Builder’s pegs can also be used to locate the bottom stringline at several points.   It is also important to check the stringlines and temporary posts and pegs regularly as the panels are installed, in case they are knocked or bumped or pressed on, by incorrectly placed panels.  On a straight fence line, the simplest means of doing this is to stand on a drum at the end of the fence and eyeball the alignment of the panels in both planes as you work.

7.  Mark the first four hole locations with pegs, at 1200 mm apart hole centres, either using a tape measure, or for bigger jobs, cut a 1200 mm long template as a guide.  With the pre-framed system, it pays to only dig about four holes at a time as it is quite easy to have error creep in, if an attempt is made to dig all the holes at once.

8.  Dig 8” (200mm) diameter holes at these locations.  For the reasons mentioned above, it is better to use a one or two-man mechanical digger and dig the holes as you go, rather than hire a larger machine to bore all the holes at once.  The hole depth will depend upon the height that the panels are to be set.  If set on the ground, the hole depth will need to be 650 mm to accommodate the extra long legs, or legs of the panels trimmed by 100mm for a shallower hole.  A post in-ground depth of 650mm is more than adequate, and if obstructions such as rock and tree roots or hard digging occur, then it is quite okay to cut a leg, by up to 150mm - as long as 500 mm and upwards of in-ground leg remains to be concreted.  This depends on wind and soil conditions and local advice should be sought in that regard.  A hacksaw or power saw can be used to easily trim a leg in this manner.  A useful hand tool for digging holes in close proximity to walls and for generally clearing loose soil from the bottom of holes, is the American style, tweezer action hole digger and is superior to the old auger style Aussie hand borer.  In hard, dry ground, a useful method is to pre-dig a few inches down, several holes at a time and pour water into them, allowing 10 minutes or so to soak down.  The digging then becomes very easy – this watering may need to be repeated several times to full hole depth, working from one hole to the next and back again.    Where the panels are set above ground the hole depth of each, should be checked to the same depth with a tape measure or template, measuring up to the bottom stringline (ie it is not possible to measure from ground surface on uneven ground).  The hole depth needs to be quite accurate relative to the stringlines, so that the bottom of it supports the panel during placement and so avoid the need to temporarily ‘chock up’ the bottom of every panel with timber blocks for correct height.  A lot of time will be saved in installation if all holes are the correct depth when setting panels above ground.  This is not so important for on-ground panel installation, where the ground surface is already quite level and will support the bottom rail of the panels during installation and the hole depth just needs to be bored a little over depth for the length of the legs.  Thin wooden ‘shims’ can be used to adjust panel height prior to concreting.

11.  The brushwood panels are shipped on their sides in pallets of 14 modules.  They are fixed to the pallets on one edge with nails / screws, and the stack has end braces.  Care should be taken that the panels are stable, when removing strapping and fixings - preferably lean the pallet stack against a wall before removing the diagonal and horizontal braces.  The panels can then be taken off one at a time, after removal of the tek screws or nails which hold them to the pallet and adjoining panels.  The panels weigh 72 kg each and require two or more persons to handle, depending upon what height they are being unloaded from and ground slope conditions etc.  Ideally, pallets should be fork-lifted to ground level near the workface, to make it easier to remove the panels.  The brushwood panels have the top plates and “V” plates already fitted, and additional screws required are in plastic bags fixed in shipping to the pallet.

10.  Fit a brushwood panel to the first pair of holes.  The panels have a front and rear side, with the brushwork having a slightly different look from one side to the other.   If this poses a problem where a fence must run in a particular direction and one side is preferred for the ‘front’, then the top plate and bottom “V” plate can be swapped around to the opposite legs on each panel to allow installation to commence from the opposite end of the fence line.  At commencement, the orientation of the panel, should be such that the leg with a top plate already fitted will be at the very start of the fence line.  This plate on the very first panel, being an end post, can be removed, unless it is a fence corner, in which case the plate is turned at right angles to the new direction and screw re-tightened.  The leg with the “V” plate at the foot should now be in the next hole, where the following panel leg will drop down to meet it.  With a person at either end to lift, the first panel is stood upright and gently lowered into the first pair of holes, so that when vertical with a spirit level, the brushwood panel is just touching the bottom stringline at the rear, and in line with the top stringline for height.  Care must be taken when working, not to push the stringlines out of line with each panel fitted, eventually causing a bow in the fence-line.  Where the panel is to be set above ground level, and the holes have been overdone for depth, blocks of wood of different thicknesses can be used underneath the panel to shim to the correct height and a box-full of timber off-cuts on a big job is needed for this purpose.  When the panel has been positioned, props of either pipe or timber can be used, one on either side of the panel, to secure, whilst fitting and concreting the next panel and until concrete is set where wet mix is used.  Where wet mixing, a pair of props is needed for each panel installed in the days work.  Where dry mix is used, then only two pairs of props are needed.

11.  Concrete is used to set the very first hole/post.  Either wet or dry mix can be used.  Bags of rapid set premix are simply opened and poured down the hole with some water added midway and at the top as you work.  Be sure to pour an even amount of concrete around the posts from both sides as you fill the hole, so that the concrete does not push the post across one-way and out of line.  It is helpful to scrape away the soil from the rim of the hole to form a funnel shape, to better allow concrete to enter the hole.  This is especially true when panels are set on the ground, and there's not a lot of room to pour concrete due to the proximity of the bottom-rail.  Dry mix concrete direct from a bag is the easiest way to apply without wastage and will require between half to three quarters of a 20kg bag, depending on hole size and depth.

12.  The next brushwood panel is then fitted, with the end of the abutting leg, sliding down the face of the previous panel leg, until it homes into the bottom “V” bracket of the previous panel.  When the foot of the panel has locked in, there is still a gap at the very top between the two panels.  The brush panel is then tilted over, such that the top plate slides over and seats on top of the preceding panel.  If soil has dropped down into the bottom “V” plate, the top plate may not seat properly at the top.  If this happens, the soil can be cleared away or often a piece of timber and a ‘lump’ or ‘mash’ hammer, can be used to tap down on top of the plate to align the two modules for height. If the two posts of the adjoining panels do not meet fully at the top when tilting over, a lever such as a crowbar, using a piece of timber as a fulcrum underneath the free edge of the new panel, can be used to tilt/lever the panel over, and the top plate can then be tek-screwed down, to secure.  Props should be used as an aid to support the brushwood panel, whilst being fixed.  It is important that holes be of the correct depth (and the ground be straight/level if panels are to be seated on the ground) to avoid double handling to adjust hole depth etc.  It is also most important that the panels be true to the stringlines and not lean on the stringlines, as any undulation or progressive misalignment, will be most apparent with this form of fencing, especially on long straight runs.

13.  Underground obstructions such as water, power, telephone, gas, or large tree roots etc can pose problems with pre-made brushwood panels.  It is best to locate services, prior and when planning the job, as Ausbrush can supply custom width panels to accommodate such situations.  However, if this situation does arise on the job, the width of panels can be adjusted, by simply removing four tek screws, from one side member, sliding the “C” channel off and removing brushwork from the panel side.  Firstly, lay the panel on a trestle so that the side channel can be removed and the wire pins at the edge of the panel can be removed and a segment of brush pulled out.  If the panel needs to be cut in half, say, each horizontal wire can be cut on both sides of the brush panel to a texta line, using pliers or side cutters and leaving enough wire to bend back around the wire staple closest to the measurement required.  The top and bottom rail can then be cut to a similar width and the “C” channel refitted by sliding on from one end.  This doesn't take too long to do.

14.  End-finishing brush panels can be pre-ordered to a special width, or cut on-site as described above to suit the length of the fence line.

15.  Touching up paintwork.  Ironbark coloured spray packs are available for touching up the paintwork at job finish.  The ironbark colour is one of the best, to blend in with the brushwork, given the quite high proportion of steel in this type of fence, although other colours are available on request for the larger jobs.

15.  Sloping sites need special treatment, and when order are placed this should be nominated.  Instead of a flat plate on the top, an angle bracket is fitted as the panels step up the slope.  ‘Two-hole’ plates can also be fitted alongside the bottom channels to connect the panels, rather than using “V” plates.  If you're working on a sloping site project, please discuss this with us for the best options.

16.  Where brushwood gates are required, it will depend on whether it is a front gate of solid construction, or a rarely used rear gate of lighter design, as to the posts and fittings and gate design required.  Contact us for details and options.

For questions relating to specific installations, I will be happy to assist and can be contacted on mobile 0418 841 889, email hague@ausbrush.com or at www.ausbrush.com .

See also our DVD video presentations for the various brush fence installation options, including conventional framing with inline and offset fixing methods and brush roll finishes.

Hague Showell

Ausbrush Panels

July 2007

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